Glossary of Terms for Clothing
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4-Needle Stitched- Double-Needle stitched but with four stitches.
2-Way Zipper- A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction.
1x1 Rib- Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.
All-Weather Microfiber- 100% Polyester Microfiber with waterproof coating and fully taped seams. 100% waterproof.
Anti-Pill- A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabrics surface due to abrasion during wear.
Argyle- Typically a diamond pattern woven into a garment.
Baby Pique- Very small pique knit. (See Pique Knit).
Back Pleats- Tiny folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.
Back Yoke- A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.
Backing Yarn- The yarn which is napped on the inside of a fleece garment, that creates the soft lining of fleece.
Banded Cuffs- A piece of single-ply material, usually ribbed, which is added to the sleeve ends to form a cuff.
Bartacked- Reinforced stitching, i.e. rivets used in reinforcing pockets on jeans.
Basket Weave Knit- process of weaving yarns back and forth resulting in a two-tone appearance.
Binding- A sewing method that encases an edge or seam with fabric.
Birdseye Jacquard- A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric.
Blanket Stitch- A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.
Bonded Fleece- Fleece produced with multiple layers that are bonded together creating a thicker and heavier weight garment.
Box Pleat- A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.
Brushed Cotton- Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.
Button-Through Sleeve Placket- A small placket located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.
Cami-Strap- Very narrow shoulder straps.
Carding- A fiber cleaning process in yarn spinning.
Casual Microfiber- 100% Polyester Microfiber fabric that is water repellent and wind resistant.
Cavalry Twill- A type of Twill Weave (Pattern of the Twill).
Chambray- A dressier fabric woven with white threads across colored threads.
Collarette- The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.
Combed Cotton- Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in parallel order resulting in a smooth yarn used in finer garments.
Compaction- A shrinkage control technique used in fabric manufacturing.
Cool Mesh- Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Features a soft hand for better comfort.
Cool Weave- Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Slightly larger knit than Cool Mesh, it has a denser feel.
Cord Locks- A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.
Course- Loops of horizontal knit fabric.
Coverseamed- A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.
Cut- The number of needles utilized per inch when knitting fabric.
Denier- A density of the weave in a nylon or polyester product.
Dobby- A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric.
Double-Needle Stitched- A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.
Dry-Fiber- A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster than average golf wear.
Drop Needle- A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth. Manufactured by dropping a needle from the knitting cylinder.
Drop Tail- A design feature where the back of the garment is longer then the front.
Duck Cloth- Tightly woven fabric that provides wind and snag resistance.
Dyed-To-Match- Buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.
EcoSpun- A fleece outerwear fabric made from at least 50% materials reclaimed from recycled plastic soda pop bottles.
End-on-End- A 2-ply weave of different color yarns that run parallel against each other so that both colors are visible.
Enzyme Washed- A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.
Etched Tone Buttons- A more upscale horn tone button with an etched pattern.
Extended Tail- When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.
Eyelets- Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.
Face Yarn- The exterior yarn of a fleece garment.
Flash- A flashing process is necessary when screen printing a light ink color over a dark fabric. A layer of White must be layed down first and "flashed" or dried before laying down additional coats of ink.
Fleece- A multi-yarn fabric identified by a soft napped interior and a smooth exterior.
Full Cut- Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.
Garment Washed- A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.
Garment Dyed- A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.
Hand- Quality or characteristic of fabrics that are perceived by the sense of touch; e.g. firmness, softness, fineness, drape.
Henley- A knit shirt with a button placket at the neckline, no collar. Copied from a shirt originally worn by rowers at Henley, England.
Herringbone- A chevron or zig-zag pattern, knit into fabric.
High Profile- A cap style with a high slope structured with buckrama stiff fabric lining.
Less fitted to the head.
Horn Tone Buttons- Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.
Houndstooth- A medium sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.
Inset/Set-In Placket- A placket that is constructed from a separate piece of fabric and sewn in
separately. This placket is visible after it is sewn into the garment.
Interlock Knit- A fabric that has two plys knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides.
Iridescent Buttons- Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like hue.
Jacquard Knit- A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, 2 or more colors are used. Woven jacquard fabrics include brocade, damask and tapestry. In knits, jacquard is typically a jersey fabric with a different and more complex needle selection.
Jersey Knit- This fabric has a definite smooth side, the outside, and a textured side, the inside.
Knit Fabric- Fabric made by intertwining yarn or thread in a series of connected loops.
Lamborder- A flat rib knit, with specified dimensions, that is used to function as a placket and placket facing.
Locker Loop- A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.
Locker Patch- A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.
Low Profile- A cap style with a low slope that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.
Matte Taslan- See Taslan but with a dull finish.
Melange- A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.
Mercerized- A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand and lustrous appearance.
Mesh- Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Larger knit than Cool Weave.
Micro Fleece- A high density, anti-pilling fleece made of knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a regular fleece garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.
Microfiber- This fabric is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.
Micro Cord- A very fine wale cord.
Micro-Stripe- An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into the fabric.
Mid Profile- A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. It is most often structured with buckram.
Mother of Pearl Logo Buttons- Buttons made from Mother of Pearl, with a logo inscribed on them.
Nap- The soft or fuzzy surface of fleece achieved by shredding the backing yarn.
Nail Head Design- A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.
Nublend- The combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES® for their blended fleece that helps prevent pilling.
Optical Brightener- A fabric brightening additive.
Ottoman Knit- Also known as "cool knit" or "cool weave". This fabric has a small box-like pattern and certain wicking properties to keep moisture away from the skin.
Overdyed- A process in which yarn dyed fabrics or piece dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors.
Oxford- A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man-made fibers.
Patch Pocket- A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.
Pearlized Buttons- Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.
Pewter Buttons- Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.
Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons- Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone, usually one encompasses the other.
Pigment Dyed- A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.
Pill Free® - A process developed by Lee® to help prevent pilling on fleece garments.
Pique Knit- A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a birds nest, waffle weave or honeycomb. It offers an open knit surface with a coarser hand than jersey or interlock and used primarily in short-sleeve knit polo shirts.
Placket- The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens or buttons together.
Poly-filled- A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular nylon lining.
Polynosic- Features similar characteristics to cotton and silk, has excellent luster and very little shrinkage.
Popcorn Pique- Alternating rows of 2 different pique knits; one knit is a baby pique, while the other is a larger pique that resembles small circles knit closely together.
Poplin- A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.
Pre-Shrunk- This term refers to a manufacturing process whereby the fabric is compressed before a garment is sewn from it. The fabric decompresses during washing, compensating for any natural shrinkage. "Pre-shrunk" does NOT mean "Pre-washed".
Print Pro - A knitting process developed by Hanes® for their fleece garments that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface.
PVC- A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.
Raglan Sleeves- Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.
Rapid Dry- A fabric designed with a unique weave to wick away moisture from the body.
Reactive Dyes- Dyestuffs that form chemical bonds with cotton fibers.
Reinforced Placket- Stitching in the shape of a rectangle at the bottom of a placket, for reinforcement.
Resort Cuff- Also known in the industry as a "logo cuff", describes a cuff that has a small blank space in the pattern to provide a spot for embroidering.
Reverse Placket- See Placket, but reversed for womens garments.
Rib Knit- A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains "memory".
Ring Spun Yarn- Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand. Found in more expensive polos and tees.
Ringer- A t-shirt with collar and sleeve cuffs of a different color than the body of the shirt.
R-Tek Fleece- 100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls on the surface of the fabric.
Running Stitch- A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the external side.
Sandwashed- A washing process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.
Sculpted Hem- A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail.
Seamless Collar- A collar that is knit in a circle and set circular. There are no "joining" seams on the collar.
Self-Fabric Collar- A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment.
Self-Fabric Sweatband- Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed with the same fabric as the crown.
Serge Stitch- An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.
Side Vents- Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.
Singles- A term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn; the smaller the number, the thicker the yarn. Usually expressed as "16/1" or "18/1".
Single Needle- Single row of stitching at seam, see "Top Stitching". Provides a more comfortable seam for the wearer.
Slash Pockets- A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.
Stonewashed- A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look and reduced shrinkage.
Storm Flap- A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture.
Structured- A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.
Sueded Cotton- A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.
Sueded Nylon- (See Sueded Cotton).
Taped Seams- A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing. increased comfort and durability for the wearer.
Taslan- Refers to how the fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.
Teklon- A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.
Tencel- A fabric made from the cellulose found in wood pulp which is processed into a silk-like, delicate fabric.
Terra-Tek - A durable and water repellent Taslan with a matte finish.
Terry Velour- A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.
Three-End Fleece- Face, tie-in and backing yarns combined to form a fleece fabric.
Tricot Lining- A very lightweight nylon lining most often used in shorts.
Triple-Needle Stitched- See Double-Needle Stitched but with 3 stitches.
Tone on Tone Jacquard Collar- See Jacquard Knit. The two colors being used are the same.
Top Stitching- A design feature, both decorative and functional, that is an additional means of securing fabric plies whereby the original seam is folded under and sewn down.
Tubular Collar- Collar which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams.
Tuck-In Tails- A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in during strenuous activities.
Tuck Stitch- Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt a waffle-weave type texture and look.
Twill- A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.
Twill Tape Placket Lining- Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.
Underarm Grommets- Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation.
Unstructured- A low profile cap style with a natural low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown.
V Patch- A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collarette. Can provide support against stretching the neck opening and is also a style component.
Vents, Front & Back- Allow for breathability and may aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no show-through on the inside of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.
Waffle Weave/Knit- A waffle, or square pattern, knit or woven into a garment.
Washer Nylon- A nylon garment treated with a special finish to produce a crinkled effect.
Weathered Twill- A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance that will continue to enhance with each wash.
Welt Collar and/or Cuffs- A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for 2-ply collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments.
Wood Tone Buttons- Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.
Yarn Dyed- Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.